"Jim Spanfeller" (awesomeaustinv)
08/21/2020 at 23:53 • Filed to: Car Problems
0
34|
"Jim Spanfeller" (awesomeaustinv)
08/21/2020 at 23:53 • Filed to: Car Problems | 0
| 34 |
The source of my T-bird’s coolant leak has been found... It seems that at some point a previous owner stripped out a bolt hole in a thin area of the aftermarket aluminum intake manifold, and attempts to re- thread the hole caused that area to crack. In theory, it might be possible to weld the crack together, but welding aluminum is super difficult and it’s such a small, tight spot that anyone skilled enough to do it would likely charge more than the part is worth, if there even is anyone like that in Idaho. My mechanic has so far found one used manifold for sale, but it’s a two-barrel cast iron manifold, so it would be a major downgrade from what I currently have, not to mention I’d have to deal with a whole new set of carburetor problems after I just got the one I have fixed! We’ll keep looking for more options, but so far I haven’t had much luck. I head off to college in a week, and I can maybe do without my car for a week after that, so I need a new manifold quickly and at this point I don’t have much cash left for parts. New manifolds like the one I had before cost $ 400+, which is more than I can afford. I need a cheap, used, non-cracked four-barrel intake manifold for a Ford 390 V8 within two weeks, preferably aluminum but I’ll make do with a cast iron one if I have to. This is a long shot, but any suggestions? I’m not sure what to do at the moment, but maybe some of you have an idea?
My bird IS the word
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:05 |
|
Jb weld? Supposedly it can "fix a cracked block"
|
Jim Spanfeller
> My bird IS the word
08/22/2020 at 00:08 |
|
That feels a little more like a bodge than a fix, but I’ll mention it to my mechanic and see what he thinks. Part of the issue is that it’s cracked where the thermostat housing bolts on, so that area has to be smooth to make a good seal.
Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:12 |
|
That sucks. I don’t have any helpful info, but I’m sure you’ll get it figured out in time. The question is whether you are going to downgrade or even if you could live with it for a while.
Also, congratulations on heading off to college soon I'm almost to my second week of classes and I haven't had an in person class yet. Just one studio move in time.
sony1492
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:13 |
|
Id Google metal working businesses nearby, and if none are around, shops that do custom work. Businesses with a tig welder should be able to weld the crack closed even though its thin, as long as you bring the intake to them.
Id suspect shop rates of $120 an hour for a couple hours.
WilliamsSW
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:14 |
|
I heard you like 4 barrels?
But seriously, it’s an FE 390. You’ve got plenty of options.
lone_liberal
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:21 |
|
Wow, FE parts are crazy expensive. It doesn’t help that there doesn’t seem to be cheap generic brands that offer an intake. I looked at eBay and they did have some stock cast iron 4 barrel intakes but once you figure in shipping they’re as much as a new aftermarket one. Maybe check the wrecking yards for trucks that might have a 390? Sorry, I’ve failed in my mission.
RacinBob
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:30 |
|
Actually, this kind of leak is perfect for stop leak. 7 Years ago my U plander intake manifold gasket started leaking when cold and and a dose of stop leak fixed it. All I did was drain down the radiator cold, put it in, drive it for 1/2 hour and park it and it was fixed.
I got the idea from when m y brother’s 90's BMW 3.5 leak from what was likely a bad head gasket was fixed by a similar stop leak material.
I would not hesitate to try it on your car and fully expect it would work. These materials are 50+ years old.
What do you have to lose?
|
Jim Spanfeller
> Who is the Leader - 404 / Blog No Longer Available
08/22/2020 at 00:31 |
|
Worst case scenario, at least I have one option that will make it drivable if heavier and less powerful, and it’s cheap. But it’s really not ideal, hence this post.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> sony1492
08/22/2020 at 00:34 |
|
At that point though, the bill costs as much as a replacement part... I’ll consider it, but I guess it depends on how good it’ll be afterward and whether fixing the one I’ve got will yield a better part than my other options.
VincentMalamute-Kim
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:38 |
|
Find someone who does TIG and weld it. It can’t cost that much if you bring the clean part to him and especially if you do the grinding and finishing after.
At the same time, t
hey can fill in the stripped hole and you can drill and tap it for a correct repair of the bolt hole too.
Li
ke Sony1492 says, welding aluminum is not
that
difficult. Fewer
people
do it compared with steel
but it’s not difficult. Welding cast iron is difficult.
The Snowman
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:39 |
|
Welding aluminum is not that hard and a crack on an intake doesn't seem scary just grind a bit of the crack to v and weld it up then retap. Maybe even a muffler shop that has a tig welder could do it for you.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> WilliamsSW
08/22/2020 at 00:40 |
|
I don’t have $590, unfortunately. These aren’t Chevy 350s, the parts are out there but they don’t grow on trees...
shop-teacher
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:43 |
|
It would, but if you can't find the replacement part, then it may be your only option anyways.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> RacinBob
08/22/2020 at 00:43 |
|
A functioning car? I don’t want to risk anything else in the coolant system having problems. I’ll talk to my mechanic about it, though.
onlytwowheels
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:50 |
|
Did a boneyard search for part, and came up with one in Emmett, Idaho and one in Vancouver, WA among others.
See results here:
|
Jim Spanfeller
> onlytwowheels
08/22/2020 at 00:53 |
|
Thank you!
|
onlytwowheels
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 00:55 |
|
You’re welcome.
|
My bird IS the word
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 01:04 |
|
Well, it is so low cost that it can’t hurt. Should be able to sand it flat, not sure if that would require machining levels of precision or not depending on where it is. But the part is junk anyway. Provided no risk, I will try the redneck fix first, it has paid dividends so far.
|
RacinBob
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 01:32 |
|
Yes, functioning for 7 years. I was consuming antifreeze and it fixed it. I read somewhere that GM stop leak is good too. For a crack like yours, it sounds like a good match. Read the reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-3634621-Cooling-System/product-reviews/B000QIH3C4
|
Jim Spanfeller
> My bird IS the word
08/22/2020 at 01:34 |
|
In that case I think I’m still more inclined to find someone with a TIG welder who can do it like others here have suggested. I need this car to run somewhat reliably every weekend for the next ~4 years at least, hence my reluctance to bodge. I’m going for cheap but adequate here.
|
RacinBob
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 01:41 |
|
I was wary too. Hence starting from cool and running for a half hour at load. No issues was my result, I tend to trust products that have been around for 50+ years, with many good reviews. As I recall I used the GM product. Although I believe it is the same as this.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> RacinBob
08/22/2020 at 01:56 |
|
Well, if it lasted you seven years then that should be enough time for the car to get me through college at least. I do plan on keeping this car for a long time, so I just want to make sure that any fix I do will have decent longevity. But if this option is cheap and works alright, it way be my best option.
oldmxer
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 04:26 |
|
the problem with any welding process is heat, especially alum. if you decide to go that route it will have to be taken off. i have 50 years experience in this area and it will never hold through constant heat cycles without the pre-heating necessary to do it right
RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 07:31 |
|
Is the crack accessible from the outside...? Any chance you could just use some high-temp epoxy to seal the crack?
Sovande
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 08:06 |
|
Don't add gunk to your coolant system. Do the actual repair. Welding aluminum is easy for a welder, but I would look for a new manifold.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> Sovande
08/22/2020 at 09:27 |
|
Trouble is, I can’t afford a new aluminum manifold, and used aluminum manifolds are proving tricky to find, so my options would be to downgrade to an extremely heavy cast iron manifold. Welding won’t hold up through constant heat cycles without the necessary pre-heating apparently, and I don’t know where I would find someone who could do that within my price range. This stop leak stuff, from all the reviews, does seem to actually work if you get a good brand, and I can drain the coolant system afterwards if I’m afraid of gunk in the system. Most importantly, it’s dirt cheap and I don’t have much money left for parts at this point. It just has to hold up for 4 more years until I have a better job and can afford to fix it properly.
|
My bird IS the word
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 09:41 |
|
I mean the idea would be to float you until you can find/afford something proper instead of being in a rush
|
Sovande
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 09:42 |
|
I guess I don’t think the repair of a piece of hardware should involve introducing a leak stop substance into your cooling system. It just seems like a recipe for something to go wrong. Clogged radiator, clogged coolant passages in the head, the intake, etc. Fix the real problem.
How badly does it leak and what would be the issue with just keeping an eye on the level and topping it up?
What intake do you need? What engine, year etc? I don't know jack about ford's.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> Sovande
08/22/2020 at 10:04 |
|
I was skeptical of it too, and I’ve been doing lots of research so I know what I’m getting into, but it appears this stuff has been around for over 100 years and it actually does work very well, often fixing the leak for good, and doesn’t cause harm to the engine. They even claim you can leave it in there and it will be fine, although I’d drain the system afterwards just to be safe. The leak is small but pretty constant, and I just don’t want to have to deal with constantly keeping an eye on it or leaving a wet spot in the college parking lot wherever I park. Also, it’s a Ford 390 V8. What I’ve been finding is that parts are out there, but it’s not like a small block Chevy engine where parts are everywhere and cheap. Sometimes Ford 390 parts can get pricey.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> My bird IS the word
08/22/2020 at 10:08 |
|
Another person here recommended using a good stop leak product, and my research tells me it should actually fix the problem and I don’t even have to remove the manifold. Better yet, a bottle from a good brand should only set me back about five bucks, so it’s a good budget fix.
|
Sovande
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 10:19 |
|
What's your budget to fix it?
|
My bird IS the word
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 10:28 |
|
Then I would go for that.
|
RacinBob
> Jim Spanfeller
08/22/2020 at 10:31 |
|
I reread the comments on Amazon and to me they looked pretty encouraging, especially as it is GM’s fix for porosity. My recollection was I used the GM tablets which I bought through the local Buick dealer.
I don’t know about claiming it can fix holes in a radiator or a blown head gasket. (Although it looked like it worked for my brother), but I think it is perfect for a seeping crack. As I recall I broke up the tablets and drained down the radiator before adding them. I then refilled and drove it for at least an 1/2 hour so that it would be dissolved and distributed. Also I ran the heat on full so nothing was going to settle in the heater core.
The leak sto pped and there was no impact on cooling or heating capacity. It’s a option.
|
Jim Spanfeller
> Sovande
08/22/2020 at 17:13 |
|
About $200-$300. After all the parts I’ve had to buy for this car, my funds are getting pretty low.